Dolce & Gabbana Fashion Collection - Spring 2009

When it comes to throwing a glossy, high-spec runway performance, there's no one left in Milan who does it with quite the bravura of Dolce e Gabbana. They have their devices, of course, and they spell them out up front, leaving nothing in doubt: A preshow video named the collection "Pigiama Barocco." That meant classic gentlemen's silk pajamas, spotted or striped, with lots of bejeweling in the models' hair and on brooches, for starters. Big poufy skirts came into it, too, and tiered-lace cardigans, and then gilded brocades that took a sideways segue into some of those flat, exaggerated geometric constructions (big Minnie Mouse-ear sleeves, in this case) that are popping up all over. Busy as this sounds, there was focus. At a point where most handbag displays have become lackluster, Dolce and Gabbana's literally shone, loaded with sequined embroideries and gold chains (a smart proposition for toting a purse as a piece of jewelry). For evening, the designers also nailed a couple more rising trends: mini-crinis in bouncing semi-sheer skirts, and sumptuously encrusted paillette embroideries. Finale-wise, it was all-out with romantic ball skirts studded with roses. In other words, not a whiff of economic anxiety was detectable within these four walls, and that in itself was curiously cheering.